
Kumo tonkotsu
$17The 18-hour pork broth with shio tare, chashu belly, a marinated egg, spinach, scallion and nori.
Ramen bar · Logan Square, Chicago
Kumo is a 30-seat counter for slow-boiled tonkotsu, a vegan miso that holds its own, and hot bowls every night until 1am.
The broth
Kumo means cloud. It's what good tonkotsu looks like when the bones have given up everything: opaque, glossy and rich enough to coat a noodle. There's no shortcut to that, so the pot never stops.
Kumo, “cloud.” Named for the broth, which turns milky-white around hour twelve.
Pork trotters and femur bones, blanched and scrubbed clean so the broth stays sweet, not murky.
Not a simmer. The fierce boil is what breaks collagen and fat into the broth. We top the pot up with water every hour.
Around midday the broth emulsifies and goes opaque. Aromatics go in for the last stretch: charred onion, garlic, ginger.
Strained, rested and seasoned bowl by bowl with our shio and shoyu tares. Then the next batch goes on.
Late night
For the bartenders, line cooks, nurses and night owls of Logan Square. The full menu runs until close, and from 10pm the night bowl joins it.
A smaller tonkotsu with chopped chashu, corn butter and a jammy egg. From 10pm.
Six gyoza and a whisky highball, after 11pm.
Sunday and Monday after 10pm, if you work in a kitchen or behind a bar.
The bar
Most seats face the kitchen, so you watch your bowl come together. It's small and it gets busy, which is how a ramen bar should feel.
18 counter stools and three four-tops. Groups of up to four, please.
Minutes, the usual wait on a Friday at 8pm. Weeknights and after 11pm, usually none.
No reservations. Give your name and number to the host at the door.
Grab a drink nearby. We'll text you when your seats are ready.
Bowls come fast. Eat while the noodles are firm, then order kaedama.
Good to know
No, Kumo is walk-in only so the counter stays open to the neighbourhood. Put your name down at the door and we'll text you when seats are ready.
Yes. The broth is kombu and shiitake, the noodles are egg-free and it's cooked in its own pot with its own ladles. The mushroom gyoza and smashed cucumber are vegan too.
We can swap in rice noodles for any bowl. Our tares contain soy sauce, so tell your server about allergies and we'll walk you through what's safe.
Yes, call ahead or order at the door. Broth and noodles are packed separately so nothing goes soggy on the way home.
Step-free entrance, an accessible restroom and table-height seating. Let the host know and we'll keep a table for you.
Visit
Two blocks from the Logan Square Blue Line. Look for the white noren curtain and the line of people who know.
| Monday | 5pm – 1am |
| Tuesday | 5pm – 1am |
| Wednesday | 5pm – 1am |
| Thursday | 5pm – 1am |
| Friday | 5pm – 1am |
| Saturday | 12pm – 1am |
| Sunday | 12pm – 1am |
2618 N Milwaukee Ave
Chicago, IL 60647